New rudder pedals - learning how to fly all over again

[dvm]

I had the thrustmaster rudder pedals for some time and despite their claims that one can easily use these with the feet on the floor, im not really able to do this comfortably, they just aren't shaped for it. To add, if the weight of the legs is not distributed evenly on them, they tend to stick. The fact that the rails on which the pedals move are not parallel to the floor but at an angle puts even more pressure on the mechanism. You have to lift your legs a bit to take their weight off the pedals and then apply the movements, if you want a smooth action. I'd rather return to my old saitek's or buy mfg's

This post was to make recommendations to make your Thrustmaster pedals more user friendly. As was discussed the ideal is to have the balls of your feet on the bottom of the pedals with your heals on the floor. I was looking at the photos of the Thrustmaster pedals to perhaps find a solution. I can see your issue as the pedal motion is too horizontal and there is no clearance between the bottom of the pedals and the base. Even if you change the vertical position of the entire assembly you would still have interference with the protruding base of the assembly. Even the Crosswinds have this issue to a minor degree the adjustable angle of these pedals makes it much more doable with the stock pedals. I first had considered cutting off the lower portion of the pedals to give me the clearance between the bottom of the pedals and the floor. This solution did not appeal to my standards thus the new homemade pedals for the crosswinds. The virtual fly pedals are configured for the heal on the floor operation but for almost a thousand bucks US I think the Crosswinds are a better solution for a lot less money https://www.virtual-fly.com/en/shop/con ... n-for-real. You might try removing the heal stop on your Thrustmaster pedals and changing the height and vertical position by making some sort of a platform to place the assembly on and put the balls of your feet on the very bottom of the pedal. If you consider how much you have spent over the years with disposable pedals it might be time invest in the crosswinds and be done with it. My Crosswinds with the modified pedals is as good as it gets in my opinion and they will very likely outlast me I am afraid. You should also consider mounting your pedal assembly so it will not move when applying pressure. It is impossible to have precise control if your pedals move around while in operation.

[Caldemeyn]

True, i think its time to finally bite the bullet and get mfg's or slavs

[Redglyph]

Lusting after the MFG pedals myself! At 320 € VAT included, it won't come cheap though. I have Saitek Combat Rudder Pedals as of now, but I am not completely happy with them in terms of feel and accuracy. Plus the tow brakes are too sensitive, IMO. The pedals are easy, though, to use "correctly" with your heels on the floor.

MFG are very good - for a while.

If you sim with differential braking, you have to be aware the Achilles heel of MFG is the connection to the brakes, after a while there are bad contacts and you have to fiddle with the cables a lot, and hope it puts whatever hidden connector in place. Before considering any purchase, make sure to ask whether this problem was solved or not, because it's pretty annoying.

Other than that, they are very accurate and smooth, there is no comparison with the Saitek pedals.

[AKar]

Lusting after the MFG pedals myself! At 320 € VAT included, it won't come cheap though. I have Saitek Combat Rudder Pedals as of now, but I am not completely happy with them in terms of feel and accuracy. Plus the tow brakes are too sensitive, IMO. The pedals are easy, though, to use "correctly" with your heels on the floor.

MFG are very good - for a while.

If you sim with differential braking, you have to be aware the Achilles heel of MFG is the connection to the brakes, after a while there are bad contacts and you have to fiddle with the cables a lot, and hope it puts whatever hidden connector in place. Before considering any purchase, make sure to ask whether this problem was solved or not, because it's pretty annoying.

Other than that, they are very accurate and smooth, there is no comparison with the Saitek pedals.

Thanks, I shall research! If it is a simple cable/connector issue, it should not be particularly difficult to deal with, if the thing can be taken apart easily.

I do use differential brakes a lot in the sim. In reality, I think most planes should do without. In twins or above, an engineering carryover from the taildraggers, really.

-Esa

[dvm]

I have the same problem on occasion with the left brake. It seems to happen when I have not used the pedals for a while. I have taken the pedal apart have examined the magnet and transistor and I cannot find any obvious problem. The temp fix is to just wiggle the cable coming from the brake and it is ok for a while. Since this seems to be more than an isolated incident I will contact MFG and see if they have a solution. I have thought it may just be something on the plug contacts that is causing resistance or a cold solder joint. I will post any news I may get here.

[DHenriques_]

Lusting after the MFG pedals myself! At 320 € VAT included, it won't come cheap though. I have Saitek Combat Rudder Pedals as of now, but I am not completely happy with them in terms of feel and accuracy. Plus the tow brakes are too sensitive, IMO. The pedals are easy, though, to use "correctly" with your heels on the floor.

MFG are very good - for a while.

If you sim with differential braking, you have to be aware the Achilles heel of MFG is the connection to the brakes, after a while there are bad contacts and you have to fiddle with the cables a lot, and hope it puts whatever hidden connector in place. Before considering any purchase, make sure to ask whether this problem was solved or not, because it's pretty annoying.

Other than that, they are very accurate and smooth, there is no comparison with the Saitek pedals.

Thanks, I shall research! If it is a simple cable/connector issue, it should not be particularly difficult to deal with, if the thing can be taken apart easily.

I do use differential brakes a lot in the sim. In reality, I think most planes should do without. In twins or above, an engineering carryover from the taildraggers, really.

-Esa

What I did with the MFG USB connection was to support it with rubber bands applying some positive pressure to the connection.
It's right that the connection can become a weak link but I would caveat that to read "if misused".
DH

[Redglyph]

I have the same problem on occasion with the left brake. It seems to happen when I have not used the pedals for a while. I have taken the pedal apart have examined the magnet and transistor and I cannot find any obvious problem. The temp fix is to just wiggle the cable coming from the brake and it is ok for a while. Since this seems to be more than an isolated incident I will contact MFG and see if they have a solution. I have thought it may just be something on the plug contacts that is causing resistance or a cold solder joint. I will post any news I may get here.

What I did with the MFG USB connection was to support it with rubber bands applying some positive pressure to the connection.
It's right that the connection can become a weak link but I would caveat that to read "if misused".
DH

The problem could be either side of those cables to the brakes, depending on which part has more slack, but it is mostly the left pedal on the brake sensor side in my case too. It looked like the contactor slowly detaching itself with each rotation of the rudder, since this tends to pull slightly on the cable itself (even with all the care of the world).

I was tempted to glue it or attach the cable somehow but it could do more harm than good. I'll try to contact them as well.

Paughco, sorry for going a little off-topic

[dvm]

I emailed MFG on the 11th but no reply as of this morning. If I don't receive a suggestion from them. I will pull my pedals (they are screwed down) and have a second look see. I am wondering if there is a way to tighten the connection of the plug by compressing the female contacts. If I remember on my first look see quite some time ago that unplugging and re plugging the left brake cable did not fix the problem at first. It began working again with some additional screwing around so I decided I had possibly rearranged the dirt and all was well. Since then i have been too lazy to get to the bottom of it and just did the quick fix of wiggling the cable as all is well for my current session at least.The next time around I will definitely clean the contacts on the plug as it is possible there is some contaminate from the manufacturing process. Another thought would to put a piece of shrink fit tubing over the connector so the plug will be less likely to move when the pedal is operated. The tubing could be removed with a razor blade if the cable needed to be accessed. Intermittent issues are the hardest to trouble shoot in my experience.

[AKar]

What precisely is the problem connection here? I assume it has been isolated by twitching the wires with fingers.

Connector and cable issues are intermittent by nature with digital signals.

-Esa

[DHenriques_]

I emailed MFG on the 11th but no reply as of this morning. If I don't receive a suggestion from them. I will pull my pedals (they are screwed down) and have a second look see. I am wondering if there is a way to tighten the connection of the plug by compressing the female contacts. If I remember on my first look see quite some time ago that unplugging and re plugging the left brake cable did not fix the problem at first. It began working again with some additional screwing around so I decided I had possibly rearranged the dirt and all was well. Since then i have been too lazy to get to the bottom of it and just did the quick fix of wiggling the cable as all is well for my current session at least.The next time around I will definitely clean the contacts on the plug as it is possible there is some contaminate from the manufacturing process. Another thought would to put a piece of shrink fit tubing over the connector so the plug will be less likely to move when the pedal is operated. The tubing could be removed with a razor blade if the cable needed to be accessed. Intermittent issues are the hardest to trouble shoot in my experience.

That small end of the USB cable (I think it's a B connector isn't it?) has always been a weak link. I've had them go loose on me in printers I've used in the past. The socket needs to be deeper and tighter around it's circumference I think. I don't know what the answer is for the pedals. It seems obvious that any and all "movement" of the connection has to be nullified. If the connection receives even a small amount of lateral stress the connection can become loose in the socket.
It absolutely is the weak link in the MFG setup. Mine worked ok because I used pressure applied by a rubber band to strengthen the connection and keep the plug from moving. I also secured the base plate with screws so that it was rock solid and did not move when the pedals were moved.
I think securing the plate is mandatory and helps a great deal to keep movement of the USB connector at a minimum.

I'm now using the Virtual Fly pedals. They by far are the best of all I've tested. Expensive yes but the quality is unquestioned.


Dudley Henriques

[dvm]

I emailed MFG on the 11th but no reply as of this morning. If I don't receive a suggestion from them. I will pull my pedals (they are screwed down) and have a second look see. I am wondering if there is a way to tighten the connection of the plug by compressing the female contacts. If I remember on my first look see quite some time ago that unplugging and re plugging the left brake cable did not fix the problem at first. It began working again with some additional screwing around so I decided I had possibly rearranged the dirt and all was well. Since then i have been too lazy to get to the bottom of it and just did the quick fix of wiggling the cable as all is well for my current session at least.The next time around I will definitely clean the contacts on the plug as it is possible there is some contaminate from the manufacturing process. Another thought would to put a piece of shrink fit tubing over the connector so the plug will be less likely to move when the pedal is operated. The tubing could be removed with a razor blade if the cable needed to be accessed. Intermittent issues are the hardest to trouble shoot in my experience.

That small end of the USB cable (I think it's a B connector isn't it?) has always been a weak link. I've had them go loose on me in printers I've used in the past. The socket needs to be deeper and tighter around it's circumference I think. I don't know what the answer is for the pedals. It seems obvious that any and all "movement" of the connection has to be nullified. If the connection receives even a small amount of lateral stress the connection can become loose in the socket.
It absolutely is the weak link in the MFG setup. Mine worked ok because I used pressure applied by a rubber band to strengthen the connection and keep the plug from moving. I also secured the base plate with screws so that it was rock solid and did not move when the pedals were moved.
I think securing the plate is mandatory and helps a great deal to keep movement of the USB connector at a minimum.

I'm now using the Virtual Fly pedals. They by far are the best of all I've tested. Expensive yes but the quality is unquestioned.


Dudley Henriques

Not sure if I understand which cable you are referring too. Are you speaking of the USB cable that connects the pedal assembly to the PC ?

[DHenriques_]

I emailed MFG on the 11th but no reply as of this morning. If I don't receive a suggestion from them. I will pull my pedals (they are screwed down) and have a second look see. I am wondering if there is a way to tighten the connection of the plug by compressing the female contacts. If I remember on my first look see quite some time ago that unplugging and re plugging the left brake cable did not fix the problem at first. It began working again with some additional screwing around so I decided I had possibly rearranged the dirt and all was well. Since then i have been too lazy to get to the bottom of it and just did the quick fix of wiggling the cable as all is well for my current session at least.The next time around I will definitely clean the contacts on the plug as it is possible there is some contaminate from the manufacturing process. Another thought would to put a piece of shrink fit tubing over the connector so the plug will be less likely to move when the pedal is operated. The tubing could be removed with a razor blade if the cable needed to be accessed. Intermittent issues are the hardest to trouble shoot in my experience.

That small end of the USB cable (I think it's a B connector isn't it?) has always been a weak link. I've had them go loose on me in printers I've used in the past. The socket needs to be deeper and tighter around it's circumference I think. I don't know what the answer is for the pedals. It seems obvious that any and all "movement" of the connection has to be nullified. If the connection receives even a small amount of lateral stress the connection can become loose in the socket.
It absolutely is the weak link in the MFG setup. Mine worked ok because I used pressure applied by a rubber band to strengthen the connection and keep the plug from moving. I also secured the base plate with screws so that it was rock solid and did not move when the pedals were moved.
I think securing the plate is mandatory and helps a great deal to keep movement of the USB connector at a minimum.

I'm now using the Virtual Fly pedals. They by far are the best of all I've tested. Expensive yes but the quality is unquestioned.


Dudley Henriques

Not sure if I understand which cable you are referring too. Are you speaking of the USB cable that connects the pedal assembly to the PC ?

That's the one.
DH

[dvm]

The cable we are referring to is the cable that connects the output of the brake sensor to the controller. The output of the controller is carried by the USB cable at the back of the pedal assembly. Two of the four UBS conductors carry all of the data to the PC. If you had a bad USB cable connection you would lose everything (both brakes and rudder axis). In my case only the left brake is effected the right brake and rudder continue to work as advertised. Hope this helps.

[DHenriques_]

The cable we are referring to is the cable that connects the output of the brake sensor to the controller. The output of the controller is carried by the USB cable at the back of the pedal assembly. Two of the four UBS conductors carry all of the data to the PC. If you had a bad USB cable connection you would lose everything (both brakes and rudder axis). In my case only the left brake is effected the right brake and rudder continue to work as advertised. Hope this helps.

Strangely enough my brake connections were ok. It was the main cable that was my weak link.

DH

[dvm]

I emailed MFG on the 11th but no reply as of this morning. If I don't receive a suggestion from them. I will pull my pedals (they are screwed down) and have a second look see. I am wondering if there is a way to tighten the connection of the plug by compressing the female contacts. If I remember on my first look see quite some time ago that unplugging and re plugging the left brake cable did not fix the problem at first. It began working again with some additional screwing around so I decided I had possibly rearranged the dirt and all was well. Since then i have been too lazy to get to the bottom of it and just did the quick fix of wiggling the cable as all is well for my current session at least.The next time around I will definitely clean the contacts on the plug as it is possible there is some contaminate from the manufacturing process. Another thought would to put a piece of shrink fit tubing over the connector so the plug will be less likely to move when the pedal is operated. The tubing could be removed with a razor blade if the cable needed to be accessed. Intermittent issues are the hardest to trouble shoot in my experience.

1-15-18
I received a reply from Milan in regards to the intermittent brake. I have tried wiggling the cable and the connector (plug) with the MFG configurator open and with some brake deflection cranked in and I am unable to get a disconnect. The next time I have a problem I am going to clean the contacts on the plug as I suspect in my case since the disconnect happens after the pedals have not been used in a while that I have a possible contaminate (crud) on the connector contacts. If the problem continues after I clean the contacts I may consider ordering a new cable assembly but that would be a last resort. The reply from Milan follows and I hope it helps.

Hi David and sorry to hear you have trouble.

I don't know about others on A2A forums. I only know of for what I got
report of, if you understand what I mean. There have been few issues
before, but just a few. Comparing with 6000 units produced it is more of
a human mistake or some outside factor than some common fault. But yes,
we can improve pedals even more to narrow down this issue, hopefully to
zero.

1. One of the possible causes is a black cable fitted on your pedals. We
had a few occasions where pedals loss brake signal near the connector.
Check if you can "iritate" loss of signal by wiggling/shaking cable near
connector. If this is the case I have to ship you a replacement cable (
new revision ,grey one).

2. Other possible issue might be poorly made female contact by us, here
in factory. Again, black cable was tricky to clam connector on due to
thickness of cable, so maybe it don't have enough mating force to be
kept in contact with male plug. This get's worse if you plug/unplug over
time since this connector only has 50 mate/unmate cycles. Again, calling
for cable replacement if problem gets worse.

3. Another possible issue might be contact oxidation. It depend on
humidity of enviroment where your pedals are stored. Oxidated contact
male pin will not bind well. Maybe you can use some fine grit sandpaper
to sand out the contact pins on electronics, see if this will solve the
problem. If yes, then it is a contact oxidation. Or, like you said,
simply plug/unplug cable a few times and all goes well again, because
you cleaned oxid layer by doing so.

Now that you know a bit more about it try to fix, and narrow the problem
to one of the three. Of course we will provide you replacement cable set
if necessary ( preassembled with sensors and connectors). As you can see
all three possibilities are on connector side of the cable, none on
sensor side

regards

Milan