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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 3:57 pm 
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Senior Master Sergeant

Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2016 8:23 am
Posts: 1868
Hi.
Yesterday i had to strip down my CH yoke , due to issues the night before , of a runaway ail trim , i found the cable going from the yoke rod to the PC board , where it passed under the board , had rubbed through the insulation on two cables , i put tape around the damaged cables , rerouted the cable , and reassemled the yoke , on testing through the CH manager , i found everything worked bar switch 11 , which used to do elevator trim , which is no longer used .
Then tonight taxiing in on final destination , my left toe brake has failed , looks like i now have to strip the peddles down .
In the meantime i need to repurchase a new CH yoke and rudder peddle , i think these two controlers are past it , i cannot complain to much , after all , they are about 15 to 20 years old , so had my moneys worth from them.
regards alan. 8)

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 5:56 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 27, 2009 3:39 am
Posts: 851
Location: Southern Germany
I had so many troubles with the CH yoke.. broken spring mounts, loose wire connections, VERY spiking controls, undefined elevator center position due to high drag of the plastic bearings, failed hat switch.. oh boy. Too nuch. Unfortunately there‘s still not much competition available, I‘m desperately waiting for the honeysomething yoke. I hope it will be released anytime soon or I‘ll lose my mind and get yoko the yoke... my poor wallet.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 7:16 pm 
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Location: US
Mine have been good but they're only 3 years old still. That fancy Honeycomb yoke and their quadrant look pretty nice, though, and I like the extra controls on them, too. I'll wait till more people tried them out though. :P

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 7:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2012 1:38 am
Posts: 483
Location: Bonham, Texas
Quote:
undefined elevator center position due to high drag of the plastic bearings


I agree that this is a problem, but it is one you can easily fix.

Get some silicone lubricant, spray some on a lint free cloth, rub it on the shaft. Pull the wheel out to get the entire front of the shaft, then push it in to do the entire back. I only had to do this one time and never had a problem again. Don't put too much lubricant on the shaft.

Do NOT use oil based lubricants as they will cause the plastic to deteriorate.

Some of the pot connections inside the yoke are made so that a user can replace the pots without having to solder. If you want to take the yoke apart, you can find these and crimp them a bit to get a solid connection. I did this with an older unused (gameport) yoke to figure out what the problem was. Now I simply drop the newer yoke the last inch onto the table when I mount it and I don't have a problem. Sometimes percussive maintenance really does work. :) Your mileage may vary.

Hook


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 8:45 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2012 7:53 pm
Posts: 1716
I used CH products for many years and chafed and fatigued wires after years of use will always be a problem due to how they are constructed. The up side is they are repairable which will extend their life almost indefinitely. The pots are of good quality and are long lived but may have to be cleaned now and then and can be replaced if necessary. A bad wire should be replaced, tape is only a temporary fix.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2019 8:30 am 
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Technical Sergeant

Joined: Sat Jun 27, 2009 3:39 am
Posts: 851
Location: Southern Germany
Hook wrote:
Quote:
undefined elevator center position due to high drag of the plastic bearings


I agree that this is a problem, but it is one you can easily fix.

Get some silicone lubricant, spray some on a lint free cloth, rub it on the shaft. Pull the wheel out to get the entire front of the shaft, then push it in to do the entire back. I only had to do this one time and never had a problem again. Don't put too much lubricant on the shaft.

Do NOT use oil based lubricants as they will cause the plastic to deteriorate.

Some of the pot connections inside the yoke are made so that a user can replace the pots without having to solder. If you want to take the yoke apart, you can find these and crimp them a bit to get a solid connection. I did this with an older unused (gameport) yoke to figure out what the problem was. Now I simply drop the newer yoke the last inch onto the table when I mount it and I don't have a problem. Sometimes percussive maintenance really does work. :) Your mileage may vary.

Hook


I didn't think of silicone lubricant... I have used a grease for chain saws :DDD I have to lube it every now and then but it's ok like this too. But I'll try the silicone based for sure, thanks for the advice!
and yes, I also crimped the wire connections but this shouldn't have to be done by the customer who purchased a yoke for 150€. And the spring screw broke out after a little more thant 2 years. Luckily only on one side so it still works but that's way too fragile.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2019 8:46 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2016 8:23 am
Posts: 1868
Hi.
This morning i stripped down the rudder pedals , a wire was broken , this was repaired , pedals reassembled and tested ok , new yoke/pedals on order , just hope i dont have to redo all my FSUIPC control set up for the new yoke/pedals , which i have done per aircraft type , so all my aircraft have a different feel to basic controls / buttons ectra.
regards alan. 8)

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2019 11:59 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2012 7:53 pm
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alan CXA651 wrote:
Hi.
This morning i stripped down the rudder pedals , a wire was broken , this was repaired , pedals reassembled and tested ok , new yoke/pedals on order , just hope i dont have to redo all my FSUIPC control set up for the new yoke/pedals , which i have done per aircraft type , so all my aircraft have a different feel to basic controls / buttons ectra.
regards alan. 8)


Just curious but which pedals and yoke are getting.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:59 pm 
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Senior Master Sergeant

Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2016 8:23 am
Posts: 1868
Hi.
Same type CH Yoke/Pedals as the ones i have , the FlightSim Yoke/ProPedals , when i purchased the ones i have , it was at a flight sim show , should have been £200 each , but because i got them at same time , i paid £300 , works out very good value for money , considdering the use i have had from them.
regards alan. 8)

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:41 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2012 7:53 pm
Posts: 1716
I have had CH pedals (also a yoke and joysticks) and a Logitech G-940 setup (stick, pedals & throttle). I am still using the G-940 stick along with a homemade throttle and MFG Crosswind pedals. Considering the quality, performance and the fact you will only have to buy them once makes the crosswinds a good investment in my opinion. Once you try the Crosswinds you will never go back. Perhaps something to consider in the future.
https://getyarn.io/yarn-clip/58f3f486-6 ... c08b88dcea

https://mfg.simundza.com/products


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 9:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2017 1:55 pm
Posts: 252
Location: Arkansas
I agree with most folks, I got the rudder petals, and yoke...probably close to 10+ years ago. The yoke eventually sat in a hot storage building before I got back into siming a few years back. They are easy to open up and service, I've done it to both a few times just to take a peek inside.

The reason I still prefer CH is that they use Metal pots (sensors) where as back in the day, Saitek used plastic pots that could get dead spots.

If you can get over the plastic, they are great value for money...serviceable...and you could even easily add a switch or to, so modifiable as well.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 4:18 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 06, 2011 5:42 am
Posts: 101
My pots are getting very jumpy nopow.

Can anyone point me to a safe cleaning technique (youtube video would be ideal) and/or:

Where would I get new pots? Some forums I've read say it's difficult to determine the specs of the pots and CH doesn't give the info out.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 6:07 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2012 1:38 am
Posts: 483
Location: Bonham, Texas
Google "what pots do CH Products use" and get plenty of hits.

https://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/ind ... c=387494.0

This has a video:

https://forums.frontier.co.uk/showthrea ... aintenance

I've read somewhere that you can replace the pots with Hall sensors but I can't verify that is true. Perhaps someone else will know.

CH Products use solderless connectors on the pots because they are intended to be replaced by the user without needing to solder.

Hook


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 11:11 am 
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Posts: 1716
Hook wrote:
Google "what pots do CH Products use" and get plenty of hits.

https://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/ind ... c=387494.0

This has a video:

https://forums.frontier.co.uk/showthrea ... aintenance

I've read somewhere that you can replace the pots with Hall sensors but I can't verify that is true. Perhaps someone else will know.

CH Products use solderless connectors on the pots because they are intended to be replaced by the user without needing to solder.

Hook


You used to be able to buy replacement pots from CH but they were pricey. Not sure if you can still buy them from CH. The most important thing is to get the right configuration so you can mount it in your controller without screwing around making it fit. The resistance is not all that critical any thing between 1K and 100K probably will work. I would go with 10K or 100K as they are fairly easy to come by. The most important other spec is that they are linear pots. The purpose of the pot is to vary the applied voltage (normally 5 volts) between 0 and the applied voltage to the USB controller. I read somewhere that CH uses CTS pots of 100K but who knows what brand and resistance they actually use. If you open the controller and look at the pot it will have the resistance stamped on the case. The brand is not important as long as it is a quality pot and the correct configuration. You can buy pots on Amazon or any electronics outfit. Finding solderless pots will be more difficult and expensive. If you plan to repair you own stuff you need to know how to solder not a big deal to learn if necessary. If you determine the pot you need and can't find a replacement let me know what you need and I will try to locate if for you.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 1:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2017 1:55 pm
Posts: 252
Location: Arkansas
nojwod wrote:
My pots are getting very jumpy nopow.

Can anyone point me to a safe cleaning technique (youtube video would be ideal) and/or:

Where would I get new pots? Some forums I've read say it's difficult to determine the specs of the pots and CH doesn't give the info out.


I actually recommend before doing that to (If you aren't already) use a pwered USB hub for the CH products, or plugging them directly into 1x1 into the computers motherboard is ports on the back. Particularly the CH throttles can be very jumpy if they are used on a USB hub with no external power.

If you are using a externally powered usb hub or are plugging the controls directly into the motherboard, try using CH's software to calibrate them...I find that if you plug the controls Into a new USB port, or the PC "re-learns" the drivers for the controls you also need to re-calibrate them too. (Any time the PC says "new device...ch xxx ready to use" I always check the calibration)

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