The A2A Simulations Community

Thanks Darryl!

Yes, she is 2.5 feet longer than the old cockpit, but is actually the same width.

Bill

I have been having a bad case of flying withdrawal so I haven't been doing much on the building side. I have mainly been concentrating on programming all the switches in FSUIPC and getting the network configuration set up so I can start flying, and then complete the build on the side.

I stumbled across this great program to network my computers while I was doing a search to see if anyone had been able to use EZDOK with WideView. It is called OpusFSX.
It is like a combination of an upgraded WideView, EZDOK, and with some components of weather programs. It is extremely easy to use. All you have to do is configure your PC's security settings for sharing, and enter in the IP adresses and you are ready to go. You can set up any view just by clicking on the arrows in the user interface. You don't have to delete any joystick buttons etc.. You can also use it on a single PC. WideView and EZDOK are great programs, but I was having a lot of problems getting them to work the way I wanted.

The support at OpusFSX is fantastic. They go out of their way to help, and answer emails promptly. Stephen is working on some specific things for me to enable my B-17 cockpit to work in the way I envisioned. This is a great combination along with the support given by A2A Simulations. It makes it so much easier to embark on a complicated project when you have behind the scenes help!

Bill

In order to be able to begin flying operations in the NG cockpit, I had to re-design my homemade rudder pedals. The old version would not fit in the NG. I had to make some alterations. The basic design is not mine. I found it on the net a long time ago. I just customized it to fit my needs.

The rudder pedals do not look like the real B-17 pedals, but since I had to re-build them from scratch, I thought I would post it here in case anyone would be interested in building a set. They are very simple to build. I used a basic cheap Microsoft twist grip joystick. The wood costs very little, and can be made from whatever you have laying around. The size is determined from how big your feet are. Just trace out your foot size, and cut the foot pedals to size. Then make the base proportionate.

Parts Layout






The base back and bottom screwed together. The top row of screws is for the 2x2 bracing bar between the back and side to keep the back from bending when the pedals are pushed. There is a row of screws on the bottom as well. They are where the pencil marks are. The bottom row of screws connect the base to the back.







Base and Back Front






Joystick attached. The 2x3 piece with the sponge on top underneath the handle is to activate the brakes programmed to the trigger switch.






Pedals attached to the door hinges.








Lever Bar Underside.
The centre is sanded out with a rotary tool to make the bar fit better on the joystick handle. The ring clips to attach the foot pedals are installed with eye hooks







The lever bar attached with the U bolt. The lever bar can be made as just a straight bar if you are not limited to depth space. I made it in this shape because I was severely limited in space. With a straight bar, my toes kept getting crunched by the bar on the downward motion.









The springs are attached to the U bolts with washers, lock washers and nuts.







Pedals attached to the lever bar with ring clips. There are eye hooks inserted into the ends of the pedals. The springs are hooked to the back with eye hooks in the corners.





The finished version.





Bill

Started work on the left sidewall switches. I have to model the volume switch from clay and then make a mold of it, so that is why it isn't there yet.









Bill

The Flying Suit Heater





Cabin Air and Gyro Instruments




I have to make the knob for the suit heater switch, and the switch for the vacuum pumps out of clay, and make molds for them as well.

I'm currently working on the cabin air handle.

Bill

ok amazing work...I was wondering all the button and switches work?

Thanks!

Yes, they all work, or will eventually work. I haven't programmed the cabin heater, flying suit heater or the vacuum pump switches yet.

I probably won't bother hooking up the flying suit heater switch though. I have never had an occasion to have to ever use it. I am not sure, but even though you can click on it in the virtual cockpit, I don't think it does anything. I mainly built it as a cover to the access hole for my BU0836X card.

Bill

Great to see this new one coming together Bill. Love the way you made the rudder pedals. Not sure if anyone outside the UK has heard of this but its a Proper 'British inventor in the garden shed' style. Love it!!!!!!!!!!!

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Thanks Lewis!
I love the saying! It fits me to a tee!

Bill

Finished the Panel Lights.

I carved a prototype out of wood first, and then made a mold




Then I cast the copies from resin. The wood prototype is in front







Painted the resin panel light housing, added a metal reflector and wired up the Christmas light.














Right glareshield panel light. It is placed so that it will light up the cowl flap switchbox.











Left glareshield panel light. This is wired to the right glareshield light, and is placed to light up the co-pilot panel.







Left side panel light. You can also see the finished heater handle and the flying suit heater switch.







I still have to wire up the right side panel light.

Bill

Rocking along famously Bill!!! Congrats

D

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...Some say he never blinks, and that he roams around the woods at night foraging for Merlin parts...

Thanks Darryl!

Bill

Amazing Work Bill!
You now master the molding process, keep up the good work

Thanks Francois!

After all, I was influenced by the master of molding himself!

Bill

Finished the quilting on the left side wall, and added the O2 Regulator, a cup holder and a fire extinguisher.





To make the O2 regulator, I used a PVC exterior electrical junction box, a waste water valve, and sump pump hose. I made the normal/100% valve from clay, and then made a mold. The red push button switch is to turn on the oxygen. I haven't connected the emergency oxygen, or the normal/100% valves, as I have never had to use them in over 900 hrs of flying. It will be easy to make them functional if the need ever arises.






Bill