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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 11:01 pm 
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BDG
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Joined: Fri Nov 05, 2004 1:17 pm
Posts: 7391
Location: Oahu, Hawai'i
phillip.ed,

You must not be using the JoneSoft Generic Mod Enabler. I encourage everyone to use it. Really simple and works fine with BoBII.
I think all of the Silent Hunter folks use it, too.

If you Install and launch JSGME for the first time, it will automatically create a MODS folder within Battle of BritainII.

Here are the Use Instructions:
==Using the Generic Mod Enabler==

1. Ensure that you have a clean, unmodded installation of your game, preferably with the latest patch(es) installed. If you are already running a prior version of the Generic Mod Enabler, disable all enabled mods.

2. Install the Generic Mod Enabler to your game's root folder and run once. You will be asked to enter a mods folder name. Unless your game already uses a folder called MODS, it is recommended that you simply press OK to accept the default MODS name. The chosen folder will be created if it does not already exist. At this point you should take a snapshot of your "clean" game files by selecting the "Generate snapshot of game files" option from the "Tasks..." list. This snapshot can be used to verify the integrity of the game files at a later date, after you have installed and uninstalled mods (see "Further notes on usage" for more information).

3. After downloading a mod, unzip it into a sub-folder under the MODS folder (call the sub-folder what you like, but use something that defines what the mod is). Note that the modder may have already set up the mod to be "JSGME compatible", in which case this step and the following step will be done for you. In such instances follow the installation instructions that come with the mod.

4. Ensure that the unzipped files under the new mod sub-folder replicate the game's folder structure. For example, with Silent Hunter III you should see something like:

- SilentHunterIII
+ JSGME data
JSGME documentation
- MODS
- The Mod Name <created at step 3>
- data
- Menu <etc...>

stickman for BoBII, the MODS folder only

- MODS
--- Old_TreeLine
----- IMGMAP16 (and file)
----- MASLMAP (and files)


5. Run JSGME.exe and you should see the mod listed as an available mod. Simply select and press the ">" button, or click and drag from Available Mods to Activated Mods and the mod is installed!

-----

The purple in step 1. is not necessary for normal users, for it to switch mods OK. Maybe some warning messages appear which I ignore.

The yellow Note pertains to this mod, which I now assemble ready to extract directly into the MODS folder, ready for JSGME use. Previously I did not, and I should have.

The orange is my writing as an example of how the folder structure should like for the Green Acres mod. I've done this for you already.

Say that you have DL'd a sound mod from someone (Mercy) that is just a zip named GunSounds with some .wav files (no folder). Not JSGME ready.
She instructs you to extract all of the .wav sounds to the Samples HI folder.
To assemble this mod yourself for use with JSGME you would do this:
1. Create a folder under the MODS folder named Mercy GunSounds.
2. Create a folder under MODS / Mercy Gunsounds named Samples HI.
3. Extract Mercy's .wav files into this last made Samples HI folder.
The mod is now ready for JSGME use.
When you enable this mod, JSGME automatically backs up the replaced files.
If you like the previous gun sounds, then use JSGME to disable the mod. It will put back in whatever was there in Samples HI before.

Easy enough. I hate to ask Players to backup files or folders. It's a needless pain, when JSGME will do it for you, sweet and easy.

Try JSGME. It is free software.
http://www.users.on.net/~jscones/softwa ... jsgme.html

_________________
"Toto! I don't think we are in Kansas anymore!" Dorothy, OZ
"sniff.. sniff.. Snort! ARF! GGRRRR! ARF! (Tod der stinkenden republikanischen Partei, diesem ignoranten religiösen Monstrum.)" Toto


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 2:30 am 
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BDG
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Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 7:48 am
Posts: 1460
Location: San Mateo California
stickman wrote:
Old TreeLine
So, for you folks that want them back, too, and improve the look of them, here is what you do.


I did it and it worked great! ...My old treeline.dds file didn't go 'SPLAT' however, which was a bit disappointing.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 12:33 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 11:55 am
Posts: 489
Stickman, I've done what you said but I don't seem to have as many trees as you :? I can see the green lines where they should be, but they are not all populated. Some are, but generally most aren't. I am using full object density BTW ;)


Last edited by philip.ed on Thu Oct 22, 2009 5:49 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 10:44 pm 
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BDG
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Joined: Fri Nov 05, 2004 1:17 pm
Posts: 7391
Location: Oahu, Hawai'i
phillip.ed,

Did you copy these lines and put them at the end of the bdg.txt file?

# AutoGen stuff (experimental):
ENABLE_AUTO_GEN=ON
TEMP_AG_SN[15,1]=1192
TEMP_AG_SN[15,2]=62

# AutoGen TreeLine stuff (experimental):
TEMP_AGTL_SN[0]=1192
TEMP_AGTL_SN[1]=63
TEMP_AGTL_SN[2]=62

Actually you will have this if you have not changed the stock lines which look like this, I think:
# AutoGen stuff (experimental):
ENABLE_AUTO_GEN=OFF

If so, highlight those last two lines and paste my lines above over them.

NOTE. The first AutoGen set, # AutoGen stuff (experimental):
is for putting trees over the forest textures.
The second set, # AutoGen TreeLine stuff (experimental):
is for putting 3D trees on the 2D treelines.

Maybe you can copy the last 20 lines of your bdg.txt file and post them here. I can have a look if OK.
Also, you may not want to use AutoGen at all, if you have an old computer.
Mine is a year old, and those values are the biggest I can use without unsatisfactory frame rate degradation.

_________________
"Toto! I don't think we are in Kansas anymore!" Dorothy, OZ
"sniff.. sniff.. Snort! ARF! GGRRRR! ARF! (Tod der stinkenden republikanischen Partei, diesem ignoranten religiösen Monstrum.)" Toto


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 10:34 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 11:55 am
Posts: 489
Here is my bdg.txt

BTW-it might something to do with the files? I installed jgsme (or whatever is is called) but I accidentally selected .zips to open with this app. Doh! So I did a system restore, but found that some jgsme files were still installed in my BoB install. I then reinstalled it, and added the tree file and selected it to run as a mod.


USE_NATIONAL_UNITS=ON
FADING_LABELS=ON
LOCK_GUNNER_VIEW_TO_GUN=ON
OBJECT_PLACEMENT_MODE=OFF
NO_PILOT_IN_ROVING_CAM=OFF
3D_MODELLER_MODE=OFF
VIDEO_MAKING_MODE=OFF
TEXT_REMINDERS=ON
TRACKIR6DOF=OFF
CUSTOM_HEAD_POSITION=OFF
USE_DESKTOP_RESOLUTION=OFF
INVERT_EXTERNAL_PAN=OFF
NO_FOV_RESET=OFF
ENABLE_AUTO_TEXTURE_RES=ON # Change to 'OFF' will affect one session only, IOW BoB will write 'ON' back over it.
ENABLE_TOWN_AND_FOREST_RAISES=OFF # Change to 'ON' will affect one session only, IOW BoB will write 'OFF' back over it.
USE_PCX_OR_DDS=ON # Change to 'OFF' will affect one session only, IOW BoB will write 'ON' back over it.
SELECT_QS_SQUADRONS=ON
GAME_PAUSE=OFF #Note: This enables\disables pause on mission start

# AutoGen stuff (experimental):
ENABLE_AUTO_GEN=ON
TEMP_AG_SN[15,2]=1192
TEMP_AG_SN[15,3]=62

# AutoGen TreeLine stuff (experimental):
TEMP_AGTL_SN[0]=1192
TEMP_AGTL_SN[1]=63
TEMP_AGTL_SN[2]=62

cheers ;)


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 10:38 pm 
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BDG
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Joined: Fri Nov 05, 2004 1:17 pm
Posts: 7391
Location: Oahu, Hawai'i
phillip.ed

Your bdg.txt is OK. It looks like you use a denser forest AutoGen than I can, so you should see more trees in the forests than I. :)

This pic shows with yellow dots, the added 3D trees on the treeline.
Image

These are added with these lines:
# AutoGen TreeLine stuff (experimental):
TEMP_AGTL_SN[0]=1192
TEMP_AGTL_SN[1]=63
TEMP_AGTL_SN[2]=62

These lines have nothing to do with my mod. These lines only add 3D trees to the treeline, through code. So the problem is not your JSGME files.
If you delete the treeline.dds file in MASKMAP and use my Old Treeline mod, then you will see the old style 2D treeline again in v2.10.
I thought the # AutoGen TreeLine stuff (experimental): lines would work with v2.10. Maybe it is a v2.11 code addition, but no BDG guy said so. :?:

Let me know which trees you are not seeing. I pic with arrows will help.

_________________
"Toto! I don't think we are in Kansas anymore!" Dorothy, OZ
"sniff.. sniff.. Snort! ARF! GGRRRR! ARF! (Tod der stinkenden republikanischen Partei, diesem ignoranten religiösen Monstrum.)" Toto


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 4:21 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 11:55 am
Posts: 489
I'm unsure here now :? I do get some trees on the treelines, but they-when viewed side on-are 2-D. I'll try your settings and see if they will work. Playing on full object density makes the game seem almost like a slideshow when at tree top height ;)

Thanks for being so helpful stickman ;)


Last edited by philip.ed on Thu Oct 22, 2009 5:47 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 1:07 am 
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BDG
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Joined: Fri Nov 05, 2004 1:17 pm
Posts: 7391
Location: Oahu, Hawai'i
philip.ed,

Quote:
Playing on full object density makes the game seem almost like a slideshow when at tree top height ;)


Once again, I must say that Object Density settings have no effect on the AutoGen forest trees. AutoGen is a code thing.
Object Density only effects how many objects are in game, that use the ObjectAdds method. Separate from AutoGen. Two different things.
Here are values that I use for AutoGen trees on forest textures. Any more and my frame rates suffer badly. This also may be too much for you, I don't know.
If so, I would turn AutoGen OFF. I want good frame rates, before good terrain.

# AutoGen stuff (experimental):
ENABLE_AUTO_GEN=ON
TEMP_AG_SN[15,1]=1192
TEMP_AG_SN[15,2]=62

Quote:
I do get some trees on the treelines, but they-when viewed side on-are 2-D


It appears that the AutoGen treeline stuff does not work with v2.10, then. OK, I wanted to know if it did.
It will work for v2.11, so forget about this now. Thanks for the feed back.

Aloha!

_________________
"Toto! I don't think we are in Kansas anymore!" Dorothy, OZ
"sniff.. sniff.. Snort! ARF! GGRRRR! ARF! (Tod der stinkenden republikanischen Partei, diesem ignoranten religiösen Monstrum.)" Toto


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 10:29 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 11:55 am
Posts: 489
No problem stickman ;) However, I think that I am getting more trees than I used to so wither way this is good for me. :D


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:48 pm 
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BDG
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Joined: Fri Nov 05, 2004 1:17 pm
Posts: 7391
Location: Oahu, Hawai'i
Cockpits_stickman_v3

EDIT! 1 February, 2010. Combined with SpitfireGauges_v3. See below, this page.
Now can be had with Cockpits_stickman_v3. See below, this page.

http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?z2ionhymfft

===================================================================================================================

8 November, 2009. stickman

This Cockpits_stickman_v2 mod does the following. Mostly LuftWaffe changes:

1. Corrects and calibrates all Compasses issued in v2.10. The Compasses that I supplied to the BDG were changed by a person.
His versions are all off by 2 degrees. I re-corrected them, except the ME110 and Ju87B Patin compasses, which are OK, but not perfect.
My makes are not perfect either, so I did not include mine here.
In the case of the Spitfire panel compass, I use an "improper" type compass for the Spitfire Mk1A. So what? I like mine better.
In the case of the Hurricane panel compass, with v2.10, you cannot see it without jerking your stick right and left!!!!
To see it, and put your head position where it should be for a 5 foot 9 inch tall man, and not a midget!
Change the models / Hurricane1A.ACD file (and the Hurricane1B.ACD file).
This line: EyePosZOffset 0 to this: EyePosZOffset 10000.
Fear not! Your gun sight will still be good. You can now see the compasses.

2. Adds my LuftWaffe fuel gauges, which are calibrated true to each graduation mark. Unlike the v2.10 ones that are not.
-- ME109E. Gauge face for 0 - 400 Liters for a single tank.
-- Ju87B. Gauge face for 0 - 250 Liters, indicating 2 each tanks of 250 liters. Press CTRL-F to switch between tank volume indication. 500 Liters total fuel.
-- ME110C. Gauge face for 0 - 1270 Liters (total fuel of 4 tanks). Calibrated good each graduation. DO NOT PRESS Control-F, as this currnetly not working right.

3. Adds my RAF and LuftWaffe pointers that are better than the junk v2.10 ones. Better centered and read truer, too.

4. Adds new Slip & Turn gauges for the LW aircraft. All Turn pointers work good. Slip balls, not so good. All 3 aircraft share the same slip ball texture.
The ME109E ball is goodly round in game, the other two are squeezed. All aircraft have different center points of rotation for these whore balls.
-- ME109E. Ball works OK. Runs outside the tube with hard rudder. Centered good with no Slip.
-- Ju87B. Ball works OK. Runs outside the tube with hard rudder. Centered good with no Slip. I had to move the tube "center lines" over to left to make it good, no slip.
-- ME110C. Ball not very good for v2.10. For v2.11 and the new model, it has disappeared! No guarantee here, yet. Sorry.
I will correct these gauges in the future, with some coder's help.

5. Kills the COCPM16/gaugls.dds file that is supposed to be the gauge glass reflection the over hangs onto the panel on many gauges.
I personally killed this 4 years ago, as I hated it.

6. For the Emil gauges that I have not yet calbrated better, I repainted the gauge faces better to get rid of all the blues, purples , and black holes on them.
Did this four years ago. I never believed in using a photo of a 65 year old museum gauge face and pasting it into game, considering it true to 1940!

7. For the Emil, I roughly calibrated the Oil Temperature and Coolant Temperature gauges.
At cold engine, not running, they both read 23 degrees Celsius. At normal running temperature, they both read 85 degrees Celsius.
After 10 minutes of running War Emergency Power, (99%) they both read up to 105 degrees Celsius,
and then both pointers read lower as more pistons freeze!!
Work in Progress as the Coolant gauge should be graduated at 0 - 120 dgrees, I think. Will fix for version3.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

INSTALLATION:

This mod is assembled for use with JoneSoft Generic Mod Enabler.
1. Extract the zip to the Battle of BritainII / MODS folder.
2. Disable and delete any of stickman's older Cockpit or Gauges mods. Then delete them from in JSGME.
3. Use JSGME to insert this mod into game. JSGME will automatically backup all files that are over written.
4. Manually backup, and remove these 3 files from the COCKPITS folder. DDS versions of these files shimmer badly:
CPT3D15.dds
CPT1D28.dds
CPT1D26.dds

Mod removal:
Use JSGME to Disable this mod. Old files will be replaced into game.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Aloha!

=====================================================================================================================

The Text file above will be put into your Battle of BritainII root folder, upon installation.

The only thing changed for the Spitfire is that I replaced the v2.10 fuzzy looking "proper" panel compass for a later "improper" Compass that I like better. Made sure it reads true!
See red dot.
Prem, I know that I promised you 90 days ago, that I would give you Spitfire gauges with realistic radio-luminescent paint on the pointers, graduations and numbers,
where I know or suspect them to be. Some more patience, please. That will be my next mod.
Image

The only thing changed for the Hurricane is that I use my COMPASS "tape" texture (for all aircraft) and moved the little brass triangle pointer over to read true.
The v2.10 COMPASS "tape" married to this texture was 2 degrees off. Not good enough for this ex-Navy Helmsman!
See red dot.
NOTE!
In the case of the Hurricane panel compass, with v2.10, you cannot see it without jerking your stick right and left!!!!
To see it, and put your head position where it should be for a 5 foot 9 inch tall man, and not a midget!
Change the models / Hurricane1A.ACD file (and the Hurricane1B.ACD file).
This line: EyePosZOffset 0 to this: EyePosZOffset 10000.
Fear not! Your gun sight will still be good. You can now see the compasses.

Image

A closer look at the triangle which I repositioned and sharpened some. The old one is fuzzy, and hard to define.
See my joystick, centered? I can see both Compasses from EyePosZOffset 10000. :)
Image

This is my COMPASS tape that I submitted during v2.10 development. It was rejected by the Assembler.
This "tape" is married to all 5 flyable aircraft, and I spent hours making all compasses marry good to this tape.
The 0 is especially hard to make true, and look good in game. As well as making sure each graduation reads true!
What the hell do I know? I am just a stupid American - Instrument & Electrical Mechanic worker slug, and ex Navy helmsman. Not a College educated Salesman!
Image

Beg yer pardon. Starting to lose my temper again.

Does the:

Change the models / Hurricane1A.ACD file (and the Hurricane1B.ACD file).
This line: EyePosZOffset 0 to this: EyePosZOffset 10000.

Hurt your Hurricane gun sight? I think not.
Image

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Most changes here are with the LW aircraft.
ME110C. NOTE! pic here from the new v2.11 ME110C model. See the better gun sight? :D I begged for that for 3 years.

Again, for the v2.10 model and the new v2.11 model, I corrected the Compass for good calibration. (red dot)
The Patin Compass Repeater (green dot) is not supplied with my mod. I never could make it 100% true. Uses radium-luminescent paint.
The stock v2.10 one is a fuzzy perversion of my make, and seems to read OK, until closer observation. North and West OK, South and East OFF 2 degrees.
--The fuel gauge (yellow dot) reads true for the v2.10 model. 0 - 1270 Liters, full gauge scale, all 4 tanks. All graduations true.
Do not press Control-F. This is still broken since old Rowan days.
--The Slip & Turn gauge (pink dot) I modified from the good one I made for the Emil. Turn gauge is good, Slip ball not so. For v2.11 the slip ball is invisible!
I keep complaining to the BDG about these shared "whore" pointers, slip balls, and sight reticules.
Falls on deaf ears, as the Terrain or Skins seem to be more important, or easier to modify. :roll:
Image

For the Stuka, I changed the magnetic compass (red dot) texture. Did not like the reflection of the old one.
I know exactly what old picture this gauge was made from, that is currently used with v2.10 stock. I have the book!
The reflection showed three house roof tops! I changed it, here.
Also, I calibrated it goodly true. No need to lean into it to read it true, I made it good from center head position, against my Instrumentation Mechanic's better judgment!
--The Patin Repeater Compass (green dot) not included this mod, as it uses radium luminescent paint.
Calibrated better than my ME110C one. I use it.
--The fuel gauge (yellow dot) face reads 0 - 250 liters. Two tanks, each hold 250 Liters. Press Control-F the switch each tank volume.
Total fuel capacity is 500 Liters. Gauge reads true, unlike the v2.10 one.
--The Slip & Turn gauge (pink dot) is good as to the Turn pointer.
The "whore" slip ball is squeezed in game and the center of it's rotation is some where in Hell! I have it moving OK, but it moves outside of the tube with hard rudder.
In bad places.
However, after I shifted the "true ball - no slip center lines" over to the left a bit, I now can trim the rudder and make the ball move into my lines, so I know that I have no slip!
Helps to trim this "I Want To To Roll Left!!!" beast, to a tamable flyable platform. :)
So my Slip Ball mod here is mostly only good for trimming the Rudder. Damned slip ball whore textures!
Image

Want to make sure that damn errant slip ball whore is behaving! OK. She is between my lines. :wink:
Image

Same place, same time.
Image

To the Emil, which has my primary attention. Her sisters may be neglected while I educate her first. :evil:

--I changed the magnetic compass (red dot) texture to mate and match the COMPASS tape to read true.
--The fuel gauge (yellow dot) face reads 0 - 400 liters. Single tank, all graduations read true. Not so with stock v2.10.
--The Slip & Turn gauge (pink dot) is good as to the Turn pointer. The ball is goodly round, and centered, swings OK, with the Emil,
and I slaved the ball's texture location to serve the Emil primarily, at the lacking suffrage of the Stuka and ME110.
Still, the damn ball has such a short radius from the center swing point, that it moves out of the tube, with hard rudder.
Even though I bent the tube as much as I dare, without making the gauge look like a Smiley Face! Nobody in BDG cares, or notices this, but me.
So... I compromise, if I cannot fix it goodly true. Damn slip balls have me tearing out my hair, because I cannot control & determine their center of rotation point!

--The Oil Temperature and Coolant Temperature gauges (blue dots). I made these both same for now.
I know that one should be graduated and calibrated for 0-120 degrees C. Radiator Coolant probably. I forgot. Need to research some more.
Currently they are Identical, but Working, Twins!
Image

Pic above shows both Oil and Coolant Temperatures at 85 degrees Celsius.
Pic below shows a cold engine standing on ground start. Oil and Coolant Temps both at 23 degrees Celsius (or is it Centigrade, which takes longer to type?)
This Montana/Hawai'i boy don't know what the average ambient temperature was in northern France, August 1940. I just guessed at 23 degrees C.
Was 30 degrees C. here this morning 0800, after a lot of rain during the night, 8th of November, Hawai'i. Had to turn on my ceiling fan. :P
Image

Ran the Emil engine hard, 99% War Emergency Power, trying to burn it up. See if the temperature rises. It did, up to 105 degrees C. after ~ 5 minutes steady punishment.
After that, during another 5 minutes, I saw the pointers drop from 105 degrees C. Guess some cylinders are not firing any more!

I was just guessing making those Temperature calibrations. Had to look at some Emil Operating Manuals, to see if I am close..
Image

Hoot! I think I came close to Blindly Pinning The Tail On The Donkey!
I understand some of the German words, in pic above, but to calibrate these LW Temperature gauges sehr gut, I may need the help of a real German.

_________________
"Toto! I don't think we are in Kansas anymore!" Dorothy, OZ
"sniff.. sniff.. Snort! ARF! GGRRRR! ARF! (Tod der stinkenden republikanischen Partei, diesem ignoranten religiösen Monstrum.)" Toto


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 4:39 pm 
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BDG
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Joined: Fri Nov 05, 2004 1:17 pm
Posts: 7391
Location: Oahu, Hawai'i
GaugesSpitfire_v3

This is my final Spitfire gauges mod. I will not spend any more time with RAF gauges, as I have other things I wish to do.
v3 includes all of the same changes I made with GaugesSpitfire_v2, and adds further improvements to the Altimeter, MPH gauge, and Volt Meter.

EDIT! 1 February, 2010. Combined with Cockpits_stickman_v2. See above, this page.
Now can be had with Cockpits_stickman_v3. See above, this page.

What I did, totally so far.
1. Altimeter. Replaced the gauge face directly from an excellent straight on photo. Repainted it. I moved the texture over a bit to center well with pointers.
With v3, I calibrated it as close as I can. It's calibration is probably better than a real barometric altimeter. My gauge reads + or - 5 feet. Standing at Tangmere it indicates 16 feet. Real barometric altimeters were at least 20 feet off, especially at low altitudes,
from what I learned.

2. MPH gauge. Repainted the texture in higher resolution, and hand painted each graduation to read true to pointer calibration.
I used a narrower pointer to calibrate this, but since this pointer is shared by 3 other gauges, I submit the fatter pointer.
The fat pointer will not show how much effort I put into getting each graduation to read true.

3. Artificial Horizon. The parallel bars are hard coded and I cannot move them No one wants to fix them, so I raised the Artificial Horizon texture up.
Where I have it now, the "plane on a pedestal" indicator over lays the lower parallel bar to indicate level flight. Ignore the upper parallel bar.
Best i can offer you folks. Better than it was!
Also I made a new texture for it, replacing the old ugly one.

4. Volt Meter. Lowered the texture to mate better with the shared whore pointer. Calibrated for pointer swing of 0 -20 volts.
This calibration was harder than I thought it would be!

5. Directional Gyro Compass. I use an "improper" type, because I don't like the look of the stock v2.10 one. Old one has a small defect that maybe only I would notice.
Also I use my COMPASS file, which is the numbered graduation drum that appears to rotate. Stock v2.10 is not the one I offered to BDG, and is not truly calibrated.
The COMPASS texture is shared by all 5 aircraft. With my work, I insure it is goodly true to all 5.

6. Slip & Turn. Replaced the gauge face directly from an excellent straight on photo. Increased resolution x2. Repainted it. Moved it around, and shortened the pointers
for best fit. Made new calibration factors in the Spitfire1A and B ACM files in the models folder. The Slip pointer now has full movement.

7. RPM. Repainted the gauge face to be darker. Some graduations, numbers repainted. Moved gauge texture and pointer pivot point around for best pointer centering.
Note, this pointer is not shared with any other RAF gauges except for the Hurri RPM gauge. This is better than the other RAF pointers which are shared around like whores.
Made a slight calibration adjustment for both the Spitfire 1A and 1B models. Not all graduations read good, most do. May revisit this in the future.

8. Boost. Moved the texture over to left, to better center it with it's shared pointer.

9. Nose Up, Nose Down. Replaced the gauge face directly from an excellent straight on photo. Repainted it.
Changed the shared (with clock and Volt gauge) pointer for best fit to this gauge.

10. Clock. Moved it slightly to get the best centering to shared minute hand pointer. Hour hand is the same pointer texture, and pivot center is way off. BIN file problem.
Sacrificed the hour hand on the altar of shared whore textures!

11. Radiator Temperature. Replaced the gauge face directly from an excellent straight on photo. Repainted it. Centered to pointer better.
Made new calibration factors in the Spitfire1A and B ACM files in the models folder. Works like this:
Cold start, gauge reads 45 C. I could not make it move any lower than that, sorry.
Normal running engine, reads 115 C. Using continuos War Emergency Power, pointer reads 122 C just when engine starts smoking. Max reading is 124 C, burnt engine.

12. Oil Temperature. Replaced the gauge face directly from an excellent straight on photo. Repainted it. Different numbers using 1 or 2 extra digits. Centered to pointer better.
Made new calibration factors in the Spitfire1A and B ACM files in the models folder. Works like this:
Cold start, gauge reads 20 C. ~ 68 F, I think.
Normal running engine, reads 84 C. Using continuous War Emergency Power, pointer reads 97 C just when engine starts smoking. Max reading is 102 C, burnt engine.
Note on both these Temp gauges. I reduced the pointer movement to not be so fast when cooling down. Moves 1.4 times slower than before.
Takes 25 minutes from engine shutoff, for the oil temp to cool down to 20 C, for example.

13. "What's those ghoul green colors on the pointers, gauge graduations and numbers?" I hear you asking.
Well.. that is Radio luminescent Paint color. Go ahead and throw rocks on this paint color simulation, one of the main BDG men did when I and other BDG men considered it.
It just so happens that BDG member Prem Holdaway (worked as a trade watch repair man, 1965 on, after his RAF service) told us what the color of radioluminescent paint
using radium actually looked liked. His wife worked with him too, painting with radium paint, and lately said, over his shoulder, "I think that color he painted there looks right".
But not every BDG man will trust the truth of two eye witnesses and people that have actually mixed up a bottle of radio luminescent paint, and painted with it for many years.

See here for pictures and discussion:

http://a2asimulations.com/forum/viewtop ... 10&t=20099

Here is what my Spitfire cockpit looks like today. Trimmed for straight level flight.
Note the Artificial Horizon. I only use the lower parallel bar with it. It's OK. I ignore the upper bar:
Image

With some 2D Gauges for reference. I put the "plane on a pedestal" on the Artificial Horizon, between the parallel bars. I am climbing.
Ignore the upper bar.
Also note that the MPH reads Indicated Air Speed, while the Info Line reads True Ground Speed. Do not compare the two, as they are different.
Note my Altimeter here is only off by 4 feet. Not bad. :wink:
Image

The Volt Meter. At right it reads 20 volts in flight. At left, I am on the runway, engine running, reads 7 volts then. When I shut down the engine, pointer swings down to 0. Best I'll do for that, now.
Image

NOTE!
My models file for the Spitfire1A makes the 1A use a Constant Speed Prop.
I ain't no expert here, but so many folks always want this to be so, that I did so too.
If you want a crappy propeller for your Spitfire1A, I can tell you how to degrade it. :wink:

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"Toto! I don't think we are in Kansas anymore!" Dorothy, OZ
"sniff.. sniff.. Snort! ARF! GGRRRR! ARF! (Tod der stinkenden republikanischen Partei, diesem ignoranten religiösen Monstrum.)" Toto


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 6:30 pm 
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BDG

Joined: Fri Sep 14, 2007 4:58 pm
Posts: 936
Location: London N1
Nice one Geoff,

I have downloaded them and I shall try them tomorrow. It is now my bedtime.

Thank you very much for all your hard work. I certainly appreciate it and I think, a lot of other people will.

Brilliant.

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Asus P6T Deluxe V2, Intel I7 960 3.2Gig, 6Gig Mem 1866 DDR3, Sapphire ATI 5870 Vapor-X OC 1Gig, 1000W PSU, Win 7 64bit, TrackIR3 Vector Exp & Track clip pro, Hotas Cougar with Uber NXT2 Mod & Simped F16 rudder pedals.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 8:21 pm 
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BDG
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Joined: Fri Nov 05, 2004 1:17 pm
Posts: 7391
Location: Oahu, Hawai'i
Prem,

I concentrated on the Spitfire first, for you, mainly.
Hope I, that others like, what you and I have desired.

Sorry I was late giving this to you, but for two weeks I have been perverting Anti Aircraft Command in England! :P
Probably get me knuckles rapped with a ruler for doing so. :wink:

_________________
"Toto! I don't think we are in Kansas anymore!" Dorothy, OZ
"sniff.. sniff.. Snort! ARF! GGRRRR! ARF! (Tod der stinkenden republikanischen Partei, diesem ignoranten religiösen Monstrum.)" Toto


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 4:06 pm 
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BDG

Joined: Fri Sep 14, 2007 4:58 pm
Posts: 936
Location: London N1
Hey Jeff, you're spoiling me. You will be having everybody sending Jerry over the top of me and bombing me. Don't you think I had enough of that during the war. No seriously, thanks once again and like you I hope a lot of other people appreciate your hard work. Also there is no need to apologise. It certainly was not late. Know only that it makes me more excited when it arrives. Like at the moment I'm waiting for my new 24 inch monitor and I'm champing at the bit for that.

Now to go off and enjoy those new gauges.

Edit: the first time I've been able to trim my aircraft with ease. Absolutely brilliant gauges.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 8:28 pm 
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BDG
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Location: Oahu, Hawai'i
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Quote:
Edit: the first time I've been able to trim my aircraft with ease.


:) Then I have done well. It is my intent to make the 3D gauges reliable.
Thanks to Eric for making the 3D gauges user adjustable.
Thanks to Ken for his BoBII aeronautical engineering, and advise.
Thanks to you, as an ex - Royal Air Force Mechanic, for your experience and advise. :)

_________________
"Toto! I don't think we are in Kansas anymore!" Dorothy, OZ
"sniff.. sniff.. Snort! ARF! GGRRRR! ARF! (Tod der stinkenden republikanischen Partei, diesem ignoranten religiösen Monstrum.)" Toto


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